In today's fashion market, it has become a right of passage for high street shops to produce bold-faced copies of designer trends and styles. We have seen this with Valentino's Rockstud shoes and even Kanye West's Yeezy Season 3 Collection (by Zara), and the list goes on. However, a week after I wrote about my love for Aurora James and her work with artisans throughout Africa, and now the developing world, I am confronted by Zara's copy of Brother Vellies' Black Tufted Dhara Sandals. Did my eyes deceive me? No! Half shocked, half furious, the impact was undeniable. How on earth could they steal from an ethical brand, whose business runs on the ethos of empowering local communities?

I was not the only one to voice my admonishment at the plagiarism (to be formal), bootlegging (to be accurate). James, the brand's founder, posted a photo on Instagram of the copy to which her followers commented in an onslaught of condemnations towards Zara. In the midsts of some of the comments, one also finds those who were glad that Zara's $59.99 version of Brother Vellies $712 sandals could make their way into their closets at such a 'steal': and a steal it is. 

This is not Zara's first time to the rodeo, a few months back I read an article about artist and pin and patch designer, Tuesday Bassen who made a complaint against the high street brand for stealing her pin designs. She took to social media showing the stark similiarities between her designs and Zara's. However, in her instagram post, she claims that the Spanish brand responded to her complaint as such: "We reject your claims here for reasons similar to those stated above: the lack of distinctiveness of your client's purported designs makes it very hard to see how a significant part of the population anywhere in the world would associate the signs with Tuesday Bassen. Please note that such (third party) notifications amount to a handful of complaints only...millions of users worldwide visit the respective websites monthly." Zara's offensive response triggered other artists, whose work had also been stolen, to start a movemet against such plagiarism. 

Unlike Tuesday Bassen, Brother Vellies does not solely rely on Creative Director, Aurora James, but also on the plethora of skilled artisans, craftsmen and farmers who make her supply chain one that is sustainable, ethical and empowering. In addition, the designs reference the cultural traditions of the communities she works with in Ethiopia, South Africa, Kenya and Morrocco. From the vegetable dyes to the sheepskin that we have come to identify as her signature, every aspect of the production of each shoe goes through a supply chain that is as local as possible (with the exception of the beads used for some her her shoes with come from West Africa or Czech Republic). As a holistically ethical brand, Brother Vellies' shoes are entirely made by the local artisans who receive fair wages and skills training from other local and experienced artisans. It, therefore, seems slightly callous of Zara's to blatantly copy Brother Vellies' heeled sandals, designed with nubuck and fox vamp and handcrafted in Ethiopia with a price tag that reflects in their ability to be an ethical and sustainable company [Zara's version? Made with polyester and synthetic fur]. Of course Zara's version does not come with an ethical component, so you can stop looking for the upside there.

The impact is evident. Underselling a product that, on the surface, makes these beauties accessible to the masses, but takes away from the ethos behind the high price points is the killer. James, in an interview with Refinery29 expressed her reaction to this: "I honestly don’t go into Zara, because it’s not my thing and I know they knock people off a lot...But to see [the shoe] actually on the shelf was very disheartening. I actually felt very sick."And her fans also felt sick as well.

rachellaureneliz So horrible! ☹️ typical@zara, 

having no respect for true fashion and artistry but only out to make money. 

You have morals, ethics and true fans on your side girl! X

MAYA WEGERIF is perhaps one of my favourite young poets coming from Africa. This poem/spoken word is perfect for those of us who are either mixed race or are just having a rough time with our knotty ends and clumps of hair. I'm having one of those days...the days when the thought of even touching my hair sends shivers down my spine, because at 07h00, I know that my trek to the pool where I do my weekly lengths will have me in the shower combing out all those knots Maya so eloquently rhymes about. I need a bit of inspiration...

Woe is me! Enjoy!!!

We sometimes forget the wonder that comes from the developing world. The innovation that comes from having so little in one's possession, has inspired the greatest minds to think outside of the box and produce some of the most necessary things we find today. As great or small, there have been many such documented innovations, that may seem small at first, but manifest into greater aspects of society that some may find endearing. I find them ingenious. 

Inspired by last month's National Geographic editorial entitled "Joy is Round," Jessica Hilltout captures the beauty of how the sport of football has inspired young people to become inventors by making their own "magic orbs" from old clothes, plastic bags, yarn, even inflated condoms (well at least we now know they are multifunctional). It depicts a message to the world of how Africa embraces football, as well as how accessible this sport is through salvaged rubbish made into upcycled cherished possessions. 

However, this piece is not merely about my admiration for these clever innovators, but relates to my WASTE obsession, and how Waste has given hope and inspiration to some of the most vulnerable people--children. Hence, the rest of this blog post will highlight some of the crafty ways youths are keeping their wonderment alive through the things/toys they build.

I got so caught up between the emotions of elation and great sorrow for the devastation that afflicts mankind every second, of every minute, of every hour of every day. So caught up that I forgot I wanted to do a quick post on Comic Relief & Red Nose Day

For those outside the UK, COMIC RELIEF is a British Charity that helps the poor in both the UK and Africa. It was founded by comedic scriptwriter Richard Curtis and comedian Lenny Henry in 1985 as a response to the famine in Ethiopia. The main fundraising activity occurs during Red Nose Day, which is a biennial telethon held in March.  What makes this amazing is the fact that all the celebrities get involved, and not from the UK, but many of them go to these impoverished countries with some of the most heart-breaking outcomes and get involved from the ground. It is truly something I admire, regardless of the schizophrenic-type state it gets you in--one minute you're laughing your head off, and the next minute you're crying your heart out. Despite this Red Nose Day inspires us to be more aware of what is going on in countries less fortunate than ours. 

After donating, Jonathan Ross announced how much they had raised from the British public before his session ended, and it really got me emotional. OVER £66 Million raised, and much more was coming in. Amazing! I felt proud, but that we could do much more. Although I have witnessed many of the struggles with curable diseases that take the lives of children, or famines that wipe out entire villages, it still hits close to home. So this is why we at the Conscience Collective are proud to say that we support Red Nose Day & Comic Relief and we hope that you do too.

Watch this video to gain further insight into Vivienne Westwood's and Yoox.com's Ethical Fashion Africa Project. What resonates with us is that Charity does not help people, but empowerment does through capacity building and transfer of skills. It is even more important that we are doing this through fashion and our shared values. It is inspiring to see the inclusion of people, who have been previously excluded from the international world market, and "why not do it through fashion."

You can find Vivienne's bags on YOOX.COM and on her ONLINE SHOP