In today's fashion market, it has become a right of passage for high street shops to produce bold-faced copies of designer trends and styles. We have seen this with Valentino's Rockstud shoes and even Kanye West's Yeezy Season 3 Collection (by Zara), and the list goes on. However, a week after I wrote about my love for Aurora James and her work with artisans throughout Africa, and now the developing world, I am confronted by Zara's copy of Brother Vellies' Black Tufted Dhara Sandals. Did my eyes deceive me? No! Half shocked, half furious, the impact was undeniable. How on earth could they steal from an ethical brand, whose business runs on the ethos of empowering local communities?

I was not the only one to voice my admonishment at the plagiarism (to be formal), bootlegging (to be accurate). James, the brand's founder, posted a photo on Instagram of the copy to which her followers commented in an onslaught of condemnations towards Zara. In the midsts of some of the comments, one also finds those who were glad that Zara's $59.99 version of Brother Vellies $712 sandals could make their way into their closets at such a 'steal': and a steal it is. 

This is not Zara's first time to the rodeo, a few months back I read an article about artist and pin and patch designer, Tuesday Bassen who made a complaint against the high street brand for stealing her pin designs. She took to social media showing the stark similiarities between her designs and Zara's. However, in her instagram post, she claims that the Spanish brand responded to her complaint as such: "We reject your claims here for reasons similar to those stated above: the lack of distinctiveness of your client's purported designs makes it very hard to see how a significant part of the population anywhere in the world would associate the signs with Tuesday Bassen. Please note that such (third party) notifications amount to a handful of complaints only...millions of users worldwide visit the respective websites monthly." Zara's offensive response triggered other artists, whose work had also been stolen, to start a movemet against such plagiarism. 

Unlike Tuesday Bassen, Brother Vellies does not solely rely on Creative Director, Aurora James, but also on the plethora of skilled artisans, craftsmen and farmers who make her supply chain one that is sustainable, ethical and empowering. In addition, the designs reference the cultural traditions of the communities she works with in Ethiopia, South Africa, Kenya and Morrocco. From the vegetable dyes to the sheepskin that we have come to identify as her signature, every aspect of the production of each shoe goes through a supply chain that is as local as possible (with the exception of the beads used for some her her shoes with come from West Africa or Czech Republic). As a holistically ethical brand, Brother Vellies' shoes are entirely made by the local artisans who receive fair wages and skills training from other local and experienced artisans. It, therefore, seems slightly callous of Zara's to blatantly copy Brother Vellies' heeled sandals, designed with nubuck and fox vamp and handcrafted in Ethiopia with a price tag that reflects in their ability to be an ethical and sustainable company [Zara's version? Made with polyester and synthetic fur]. Of course Zara's version does not come with an ethical component, so you can stop looking for the upside there.

The impact is evident. Underselling a product that, on the surface, makes these beauties accessible to the masses, but takes away from the ethos behind the high price points is the killer. James, in an interview with Refinery29 expressed her reaction to this: "I honestly don’t go into Zara, because it’s not my thing and I know they knock people off a lot...But to see [the shoe] actually on the shelf was very disheartening. I actually felt very sick."And her fans also felt sick as well.

rachellaureneliz So horrible! ☹️ typical@zara, 

having no respect for true fashion and artistry but only out to make money. 

You have morals, ethics and true fans on your side girl! X

Toronto Born, New York Based, African Made

I have probably started this post thirty times. Each draft being scrapped for a cleverer line, yet each sounding profoundly convoluted and inauthentic. The reason? To write a post on Aurora James, creative director and founder of ethical shoe brand, Brother Vellies, is one that must be done with the greatest of justice. One of the few women in fashion who is seriously changing the nature of the game, and doing it so gracefully and fashionably. Also, I am kind of hoping that we will become best friends, once she discovers the blog and realises that she cannot live another moment without befriending me. It could happen!

Brother Vellies creates handmade shoes in Ethiopia, Kenya, Morocco and South Africa, although she travels quite extensively to other regions in the world, exploring fabrics, techniques and styles by local artisans. In an interview with In 2015, Brother Vellies began partnership with the United Nations' Ethical Fashion Initiative, which saw her work with Ethiopian artisans to create 30 pieces for her spring/summer 2016 Collection. In a NYTimes Article James stated that she is "really turned off by the idea of taking inspiration from someone and not involving them in the inevitable commercial aspect. Particularly when you’re talking about underprivledged people. If I’m going to make a sandal inspired by the Maasai tribe in Kenya, I’m going to employ people in the community in the process." (Working with the Ethical Fashion Initiative, Brother Vellies provides living wages for all of its employees.) She added:“I spent some time with the people who are making our shoes for spring and I met some new people I hope to involve in our fall collection. It is always a work in progress though: Development in Africa takes much much longer than people typically realize. But, you know, life is about the journey — not the destination.”

For Aurora, sustainability and working with local artisans are not about setting up for one collection and leaving; it is about establishing a long-term commitment and relationship. In an interview with NYMag Aurora expressed the importance of longevity of relationships with these artisans:

"Coming in and doing a capsule collection for one season — sometimes it does more harm than good. If you have women who traditionally would have been in a stay-at-home situation and maybe they've changed the structure of their family by leaving and taking on work, it's really hard for them to have to go back afterward. We just have to be thoughtful of the communities that we go into, and make sure we do what's best and seek a lot of advice."

After taking home the 2015 CFDA Prize, it is only a matter of time before Brother Vellies takes the spot as both the top ethical and accessories brand of our day. In the meanwhile, I sit in anticipation for what will come next from this truly remarkable and admirable person.