The Conscience Collective

A Welcome Back...

, by Stacy H.

STYLE | Wild Wedding Abandonment in Saaksha & Kinni

Two months ago, we celebrated my friend Hardeep's wedding to her long-term partner, Ernest. The wedding was a myriad of delicious assaults to the senses: spices, exotic foods, and music packed sensory punches; and then there were the ensembles. Hardeep is Indian Sikh, Ernest Ghanaian. Theirs was a love affair that battled tradition and culture, ending in two culturally diverse nations meeting in a walled garden in North London.

Coming from a country that has a majority Indo/Indian-Guyanesse and Afro/African-Guyanese population, the dynamics between these two groups have been the basis of my social upbringing. Perhaps it is this understanding that led Hardeep & Ernest into asking me if I could officiate their wedding. I humbly accepted.

Prior to the honour being bestowed upon me, I had scoured the internet for an outfit that spoke towards the dress code that was underlined on the invitation: India meets Ghana. COLOURFUL! Our instructions were clear. I didn't want to go for an Indian or Ghanaian traditional outfit, as I already owned four saris (almost every Guyanese women, regardless of ethnicity, owns one), and would want my Ghanaian outfit to be made with original Kente and sewn by a seamstress I trust (obviously my Guyanese seamstress is my trusted couturière). Eventually, I stumbled across a cotton silk blend purple and orange jumpsuit with a long cape to match by SAAKSHI & KINNI, an unequivocal burst of colour and design which screamed wild abandonment and elegance. I immediately emailed them to ask: Who Made Your Clothes? This was their response:

Im so gad you asked us these questions, as we take pride in the way we make our clothes.

Firstly our factory is in Thane, Mumbai, we would be happy for you to come and take a look at our unit any time :).

We do not outsource any of our manufacturing outside, everything (including our micro pleating) is done by hand in our own unit. We have around 40 employees (male and female) from rural villages in India, whom we have helped relocate to the city.. We have also facilitated in many of them bringing their families to the city as well.

All our prints are our own designs (no prints are bought). All our embroidery is also done in house by hand to promote craftsmanship. Our fabrics are all made in india (we do not outsource fabrics from other countries).

Lastly, all our employees are paid weekly wages and have been with us for many years. Having been been born and brought up in Manchester, UK - we adhere to international guidelines when it comes to safety, time frame and breaks for our staff and take pride in the same!

As we mentioned it would be our pleasure to have you visit and swing by :)

Although a wider discussion on fair pay, workplace safety, and how the brand supports its workers whilst highlighting their Made in India identity will take place in another post, there needed to be mention as to how I came across this brand and why they are being featured in a style post.

I wore the cape inside out when I discovered the black piping, which didn't go with the vibe of the evening (although I love the piping when I wear it with my black jeans). I thought the less decorated side would be more appropriate for the evening, and I think it worked out well. It is also important to note that the jumpsuit--an item that I have never worn prior, despite having bought one in at RACKED TT last year--had a loose fit. Unfortunately, with my boobs and hips, this cut did not lend well to showing off my figure in the best light, so I took it to a tailor who simply took in the waist. I paired the outfit with red coral earrings from BENECARIBE--a Trini/US based designer and Emma's red Balenciagas (we share our wardrobes as a way to expand our clothing repertoire and to cut down on buying).

Accompanying me in bold floral print was my Emzy (co-Founder of The Conscience Collective and Founder of TURTLE WARRIOR) who bought her fabric in a local fabric store in Port-of-Spain, Trinidad, and then had local conscious designer, Meiling, design her dress. She wore handmade shoes from Greece, bought off of Etsy, and a pair of All Things Mochi earrings. She was absolutely stunning.

As mentioned earlier, I was asked to be the officiant and when I Googled how an Officiant dressed (yes, I did that), I saw dark and unassuming outfits--an attempt to keep the focus on the couple, and not on the person officiating. Hence, I needed a second outfit; one that I already owned. I found a navy shift dress my mother bought for me when I was pregnant, an old sea foam/mint sari and a vintage pair of sea foam/mint Fendi mules. Done!

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, by Stacy H.

Ahosi

MUSINGS | Black Superheroes, Dahomey Women Warriors & Women's Day

All day, I sat contemplating what to write for International Women's Day, and all I could think of was WAKANDA FOREVER...

Last week I went to see Black Panther with my husband. Can we just say "STUNNING!" After the film, discussions ensued on various symbolism, parallels and lessons mirrored in the fabric of our society today. However, our discourse focused more on the concept of "power," access to it, and what does it mean to have power. What emerged were the types of power that the film portrayed, whether it be strength, power in knowledge and power in control, and which types of power were the most interesting in the film.

I promise not to give much away.

For all three types of power, the film ensured that the women led. We had power of strength through the female army and the ever talented actress, Danai Gurira, who played the commander of Wakanda's army; power of knowledge through Guyana's own Letitia Wright's character, Shuri, who revolutionises Wakanda's technological advancement beyond the rest of the world; and power in control vis-a-vis Lupita Nyong'o, who is able to be influential in decision-making processes as it pertains to the moral footprint of Wakanda as it becomes a more influential player on the world forum. As sci-fi/fantasy/adventure as the film is, it begs one to think about the truisms behind the women of the film and how one should reflect on women from our past and present who took on the role of "she who shall have power."

As a teen, I interned at the Smithsonian's Museum of African Art where I came face-to-face with photographs of African female warriors. The most known is perhaps Gaddafi's female bodyguards, al-rāhibāt al-thawriyyāt -- The Revolutionary Nuns. However, the continent of Africa, has seen many female armies, and perhaps none most revered as the Amazons of Dahomey.

Perhaps most parallel to the film are the N’Nonmiton (our mothers) Warriors of Dahomey, now modern-day Benin, dating back to 18th century Dahomey. The Dahomean army was all female, and have been noted to be a fearsome force and the ONLY documented frontline female troop in modern-day history. I mean, they were known for their ability to swiftly decapitate their enemies; they were just bad-ass. It begs no question why a film such as Black Panther should draw inspiration from a these 18th century female warriors.

To be warriors they had to prove their strength, wit and cunning twice as much as the men. Sounds familiar women? However, in reminding myself of these warriors--the Amazons of Dahomey, the Revolutionary Nuns, the Khartoum Female Popular Defence Militia--one must reflect on what it must have meant for these women to join such powerful units. These women were greatly feared and respected, not just by their peers, but also by foreign adversaries. They were seen as otherworldly, and in their status given access to power in ways others (men and women) in their societies were not permitted.

Female Popular Defence militia given military training at camp. Khartoum, Sudan, 1993. A. Abbas

As I think of the fictional Wakanda army and Dahomey's N’Nonmiton, maybe my head is held that much higher, my chest pushed that much further out, my stance that much stronger. Whatever, the change, there is power in knowing that these women have influenced me in some way. Made me even prouder to be a woman and glad to share a bit of their story on International Women's Day.

#InternationalWomensDay

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, by Stacy H.

Balmain

STYLE | Temperley London x London Fashion Week

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, by Stacy H.

15 Minute Vegan

SEASONAL | VEGANS LIKE GIFTS TOO

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, by Unknown

Christmas

SEASONAL | ETHICAL CHRISTMAS GUIDE 2017

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, by Unknown

Bali

FASHION | S A Y A DESIGNS // The Passionate Pursuit of Ethical Hairpins

Being environmentally friendly is fashionable in itself.

We want to be turning heads for all the right reasons

– Victoria Jones, founder of S A Y A Designs.

Have you ever noticed that I have never posted about hair accessories of any kind. It is no coincidence. When I post about issues and objects they must represent something personal to me, and I have yet to find a hair accessory that conjures up such sentiments. Until now.

When the founder, Victoria Jones, from S A Y A Designs contacted me about her handcrafted hairpins created from roots salvaged from old plantations I was very much intrigued, and when I saw what they looked like, I was even more so. I have natural hair, which requires hair accessories that do not get tangled and knotted into my coiffure, and the only accessories I have ever found to be of any use are bobby pins (the metal, Made in China kind).

A far cry from my bobby pins, these hairpins are very much remnants of long lost traditions of the first hair accessories, as hair sticks have been used for thousands of years. During the Ming Dynasty, hairpins were considered a symbol of thought and culture, and it is hard not to assume that the same could be said of these adornments. To buy into them, we have to buy into several ethical concepts and beliefs that these accessories present.

For one, S A Y A is based on the belief that entrepreneurialism and commerce can keep traditional methods alive and drive positive action. Each classic design is enforcing a 100% reusable and biodegradable option to all the current plastic and elastic disposable hair accessories. The S A Y A business model is formulated to support a sustainable supply chain while splitting profits with those positively impacting our natural environment, at the same spreading an important ethical message. S A Y A will be working with partner organisation, Gaia, who work not only to plant their seeds, but to educate farmers and communities in supporting their ecosystems across pilot sites in Indonesia.

The beauty lies in their form and function. S A Y A is bringing back this original hair tool with timeless designs for the modern aesthete – who cares as much about the story of the products they wear, as they do of how good it looks. Through their designs, products, and marketing, it is S A Y A’s hope to inspire others to learn more and get involved with environmental and wildlife conservation - bringing beauty into people’s lives through unique designs and traditional handmade crafts that have stories to tell. This is the first step on their mission and there is plenty more to come.

S A Y A has decided to launch via Kickstarter to create a community of customers and backers who are as excited by the process as they are by the final product. S A Y A is offering exclusive deals to Kickstarter backers such as early bird limited edition specials and bundle rewards with the ultimate reward of an international sourcing and research trip to Indonesia. Visit the link here to access their campaign.

S A Y A is calling on courageous individuals to demonstrate their beliefs and take part in actively making a difference. The time for change-making is now and S A Y A can’t wait for you start this journey with them. If you are curious about whats next and the future of S A Y A Designs, contact them here: hello@sayadesigns.com

Stay tuned for an interview with Founder Victoria Jones.

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, by Stacy H.

Ethical Accessories

FASHION | ZABO + THE TYRE FACTORY

Laura Zabo wearing one of her Ovals Necklace

"Since my time in Africa, not a single day has passed without crafting something new and trying out new techniques.

In the process I have succeeded in engaging a growing community of friends, family, creative artists and outlets,

all with great enthusiasm.Our first steps were very straightforward to tyre recycling."

- Laura

To start any story, we must start from the inception of an idea, of a journey, and the story of LAURA ZABO must not start from birth, but from the birth of her recycled tire accessory brand. In this case, it did not start in the Hungarian's birthplace or her adoptive London home, but in Tanzania.

Whilst exploring the East African country, Laura came across the vibrancy of the country's people, colours and spaces. Within this vibrancy she stumbled across the craft form of recycling old tyres to make sandals, which I have long associated with the region after my own discovery in northern Kenya. In this case, Laura found the technique to be applicable to not just sandals, but to accessories.

The tyre recycling idea captivated her instantly, a stunning combination of beautiful items, which she has always admired, and a recycling solution to a persistent problem. As one could imagine, tyres are by their very nature a recycling headache, they are difficult to break down and reuse and often just pile up becoming an eyesore. Let's not forget the environmental impacts tyres have, especially the burning of tyres (oye ve!). Hence, Laura saw an opportunity to transform the excess of this material into something that was could be reused in alternative ways. Currently, you can purchase a huge range of belts, jewellery, guitar straps, dog leads - and a whole lot more. However, stay tuned for more.

There is so much more to learn about Laura Zabo, that I could not help but include my interview with her below.

HOW DID YOU BECOME AN ACCESSORIES DESIGNER?

I have always loved to learn new things and I love DIY, making and repairing things by myself. While I was exploring Tanzania I came across some brightly painted slippers made out of car tires. It was then that I realised that tires would be a fantastic material for making accessories I started a totally new chapter in my life, crafting tire accessories.

WHAT INSPIRED YOU TO USE TYRES AS YOUR MEDIUM AND FROM WHERE DO YOU SOURCE THEM?

It always made me sad to see scrap tires discarded in nature and to see how much unnecessary waste we create. I am so pleased to make such a positive use of an unwanted material, because it is a fantastic medium for creating unique fashion accessories and it seems that not many people have noticed the potential in it.

Every year we throw away approximately 3 billion tyres, so it is important that we find as many creative ways of reusing them as possible. I collect scrap or rejected tires from bicycle shops or manufacturers. Last August, German tire manufacturer, Schwalbe, donated around 5000 rejected tyres to me, which means I already saved about 1.5 to 2 tonnes of tires from landfill.

WOULD YOU CONSIDER YOUR BRAND ETHICAL OR SUSTAINABLE?

My brand is most definitely ethical and sustainable, because every tire is cruelty-free and saved from a fate in landfill. I use tires and inner tubes, and hopefully by upcycling really large quantities and inspiring others to do the same, it will make a significant impact on this planet.

WHICH IS YOUR BESTSELLER AND WHY DO YOU THINK IS IS SO POPULAR?

Tires are a great substitute for leather, so vegan and vegetarians really love my belts. My tire belts are very durable and long-lasting, plus the original designs and colours make them totally fashion-forward as well.

Some of my jewellery items are also bestsellers and my dog accessories are starting to become hugely popular. I prepare every piece with love and passion and I think that my business is expanding very well for that reason.

WHICH ARE YOUR FAVOURITE TWO PIECES AND HOW DO YOU LIKE TO WEAR/STYLE THEM?

I really like the coloured belts made from a Schwalbe tyres, because the vibrant coloured stripes are very eye-catching. But I also love the worn tire belts because I love to paint them in cool colours. I have also started to design inner-tube ra-ra skirts, and I think this might be my new favourite item.

YOUR COLLECTION ALSO INCLUDES PET ACCESSORIES, NAMELY DOG LEADS. WHAT LED YOU TO DIVERSIFY INTO PETS?

I wanted to show just how many possibilities there are for reusing tires. I would love to bring tires into the public's consciousness so that more people will think of upcycling them in whatever way they can. Also, tires work absolutely perfectly as pet accessories as not only are they are cute and unique, but also soft, flexible, durable and of course, cruelty-free.

WHAT CURRENTLY INSPIRES YOU DURING YOUR CREATIVE PROCESS?

I just use my imagination and anything I see I try to recreate using scrap tires! The more I craft, the more ideas I have; it is a continual process. I am thrilled that so many people enjoy the products I have created.

WHAT ELSE SHOULD WE KNOW ABOUT YOU AND YOUR BRAND?

I am currently in the process of creating an amazing collection of tire flip flops, orthopaedic slippers and many other new products. Hopefully my brand will continue gaining momentum and together with my customers we can help to save the planet tire by tire.